On the Street.....Brera, Milano

I saved this shot for GQ but it didn't fit the page.
I love how this gentleman is really working the working buttonholes on his jacket.


ps this is also for all the requests for men on bikes!!

On the Street.....Classico, Milano

American Style, In Italy, On Japanese

The Proper Shirt Sleeve Length

This is Dario, he works at Cesare Attolini. one of the top sartorial clothiers in the world.
When I look at this photo the first thing I notice is the perfect jacket/sleeve cuff ratio but the second thing (and maybe more subtle but equally important) is the perfect length of the shirt sleeve itself.
Similar to what we do to pants, most men in America wear their shirts sleeves with way too much extra length in the arms.
If you notice Dario's sleeves hits right at the base of his wrist without having the shirt cuff buttoned.
I know a couple of guys in New York that like to do the "cuffs unbuttoned thing" but they wear the sleeves too long so it makes them look like the shirt doesn't fit correctly.
I also think this way of wearing your shirt sleeve gives a very subtle illusion that makes a person look taller and more lanky. Think about it, tall people with long arms rarely wear sleeves that are too long , their sleeves ride up on their arms a bit. I think it is something we see everday but don't really notice.
Charlie Rose is a perfect example of this.
I watch his show sometimes and I think the way he wears his shirts looks great and gives him a heightened sense of lankiness.
Maybe because I am more of a muscular, square shape that I'm always on the lookout for things that might, maybe, possibly give me just one once of "lank".
I'd kill for a little lank.
It is one thing to see a guy standing still with a perfect sleeve length but it is another to see how the sleeves should look when you are actually "in-action".
When I was reviewing my Milan photos I found one of Dario (on the right side of the photo) working an appointment. See how the slleves ride up a bit but still looks great and is very subtle.
This must/should be a fancy watch-wearers fantasy fit for shirts.
Below is an example of another guy I shot on the street in Milan that wears his shirt to the benefit of his watch.
As a side note, notice how the back blade and front blade of his tie sit side-by-side. I have seen this too much in Milan to think it is done by accident.

Don't be afraid to print this post and take it with you to your tailor when you are having suits jackets or shirts fitted.

The Show-Off, Milan

This is Gianpaolo Alliata, he is the type of salesperson a Sartorialist dreams about. (wait, I'm not sure that reads the way I meant but hear me out)

The first time I went into Al Bazar , my new favorite store in Milan, I was overwhelmed by the selection of beautiful shirts.
Guy Rover shirts sold at Al Bazar come with an extra set of collar and cuffs and are available in only spread collar (below) and extreme cutaway collar (as Gianpaolo wears above) or button-down. ( Point-collar shirts do not exist in the best menswear shops of Milan)
Gianpaolo ,with an actors flair for the dramatic, showed me the variety of fabrics that were available in my size.
He had a very particular and graceful way off pulling out each box from the wall, flipping over the lid and peeling back the tissue paper to reveal the woven treasure inside.
Once I decided on which shirts I was going to buy I started toward the dressing room to try the shirt on for the sleeve alteration - this is where he really got me.
He just looks at me and says "what are you doing?"
"I'm trying the shirt on so you can shorten the sleeves" I said.
"It's ok, I have it" he said
"I'm really particular" I warned. To this point I had not said anything about my blog or anything about my background.
"I have it " he said with a with a slight arrogance that comes from years of experience.
"Well, understand I want the length to be right here" I said pointing to the base of my wrist.
"I have it" he repeated.
"Ok, but if it is wrong you won't have time to fix it before I leave Milan." I warned again.
"No problem" he assured me.

To be honest, I could not decide to be pleased or pissed.

I loved the fact that he felt so confident in his ability to offer a perfect fitting shirt (which is rare for a salesperson these days) but I was also a little put off at the idea I was so easy to visually measure up.
A small part of me wanted to sleeve length to be a little off just to show I was more complex than he thought (if that makes sense?)

I went back to the store two days later and damn! if the sleeve length wasn't perfect!

Mr. Show-Off!

Needless to say since then I have bought about six shirts at Al Bazar and several pairs of pants (which I did try on).

When I got the pants back from alteration, twill tape had been sewn in the hem of the pants to protect the fabric from being stepped on by your shoes(this is a very high-end detail). I asked if this was something that they always did and Gianpaolo looked at me like "of course, dork, this is Milan."

The Guy Rover Shirts are about $105Euro and the pants are about $195Euro.
To me they are just about the best menswear deals in Milan.

Tonight I will post the photo I took of Al Bazar owner ,and Japanese fashion icon, Lino Ieluzzi with a few more photos from the store and a link to their website.

Paolo Walnuts, Milano

On the Street......The Art Director, Milan

I love finding guys like this.
He is an art director in Milan and he just seems to live a stylish life.
I will have to email him soon- he would be great fior my "The SartoriaList -Milan" .

On the Street.......Corso Magenta, Milan

There is just something about these Milanese gentleman and their bikes that brings the Sartorialist out in them.

The whole Gentleman Farmer look is fantastic.

The beautiful honey colored gloves really finish off the look perfectly

At Calvin Klein, Milan

The space for the Calvin Klein show in Milan was really small but beautiful with perfect lighting. There were a lot of great looking people at the show and since the space was so tight I decided to sit outside and review my shots,

As I'm sitting there I look out to the back courtyard and see a group of painters taking an afternoon break. One guy absolutely stands-out, its the scarf - really, what American house-painter wears a scarf that way to paint! Brilliant.

And that face!

I knew the shot was going to be great and I didn't want to let it get away so I walked out, smiled, and kinda grabbed his arm and pulled him into the space and set him up against the same wall I had shot the other fashionistas. He was a little shocked but also flattered because I took several shots and he seemed very happy to participate.

I don't speak Italian but when he got back to the other painters I could tell they were really riding him! You don't need to speak Italian to imagine they were calling him "model boy" for the rest of the afternoon! Thanks painter guy - you made my day!!

The Sales Team From Doriani, Milan

Lodovico Barbera in Milan

On The Street.... At Valentino, Milan

Valentino CEO Matteo Marzotto - One of my favorite looks of the entire trip!

Men in Milan

This week I am going to run a few of my favorite men's shots from my recent trip to Milan and Paris. Also I want to send a big thanks out to all the great people at Men.Style.com for sponsoring my trip and giving me the creative freedom and access to do the best work I could do. Thanks Jamie, Tim, Keith, Dirk, Tyler, Jon, and Alison for all your support!!