Showing posts with label africa fashion week 2010. Show all posts
Showing posts with label africa fashion week 2010. Show all posts

STYLE NOTES: Thula Sindi//South Africa [Day 4, Africa Fashion Week 2010]


Thula Sindi designed a collection fit for every mood swing and occasion. From his cartoon-like splattered paint motif, to his re-invention of the cargo jacket complete with chiffon - genius, might we add - and his pretty, sexy dresses and skirts, satisfying a wide range of needs and expectations is that much simpler. However, we would've liked a clearer, more cohesive focus. The highlights? The animal print, the colors, the ruffles and the billowy skirts. Also, some surefire options for the red carpet that we certainly hope to see out and about.


See more here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Boudoir D'Huitres//Ghana + US [Day 4, Africa Fashion Week 2010]



We expected quite a bit of drama from Boudoir D'Huitres (and we got it with her use of faux fur and heavy fringing) but after all was said and done, it was her combination of playful and sophisticated we found most memorable. She kept her "Queen of the Night" collection within the boundaries of a black/white/red palette done up with lace, draping and the closest attention to proportions. We love that her collection was accessible without being oversimplified. We also couldn't shake off a keen sense of a very clear thought process and hidden gems tucked away in virtually every piece. We're sure a guided tour through the designer's mood board would help those details bubble to the surface. In any case, if you're looking for chic ready-to-wear that takes itself seriously but not too seriously, try Mimi Plange's Boudoir D'Huitres:


Also, is it just us or is there something very Thandie Newton about this collection?

XO

STYLE NOTES: Suzaan Heyns//South Africa [Day 3, Africa Fashion Week 2010]

 


Set against a backdrop of near pitch blackness, Suzaan Heyns' structural, carefully constructed pieces shone through. Draped layers, ruching, cutout patterns, felt, wool and leather culminated in unusually beautiful and poetic creations. Some models looked down, others looked forward without the slightest emotion. Unfortunately, it's not entirely clear what they're trying to say but there's a clear sense that a message seeks to break through. We're charmed, fascinated and endlessly infatuated.


See more here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Gloria Wavamunno//Uganda [Day 3, Africa Fashion Week 2010]


Africa Fashion Week (heck, any Fashion Week for that matter) and mixed expectations go hand in hand. There are designers who live up to the hype, designers that leave us pleasantly surprised, designers that glue themselves to their comfort zones, and designers you know can do better. Gloria Wavamunno's show left us desperately wanting more. There were some sparks (see above) but silhouettes were mostly basic and a little too simple for our tastes - balmainesque sleeves, tube dresses, rompers, one-handed dresses, cutout details, mostly done in African Print. We know Gloria has it in her to be very good indeed, so we're not sure why that didn't come through clearly enough. Here are some more of her pieces:


See what we mean? Simple does it for some, but surely we could've seen more.

See what you make of the entire collection here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Christie Brown//Ghana [DAY 1, Africa Fashion Week, 2010]





We gasped increasingly  loudly as we saw look after look from Christie Brown's collection. There's no doubt in our minds that she's one of Africa's foremost wunderkids, blurring the lines between the traditional African aesthetic and the silhouettes that now define the world as we know it.  The look above and those below are what made this collection one of the highlights of Africa Fashion Week so far.

[LOOK ABOVE] African print covered buttons act as the talking point in what would otherwise be a cute but simple sleeveless puff dress above. The colors are exhilarating and the thought and time that went into this winning look makes it one of our favorites.

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We mentioned gasping earlier. We're not ashamed to say this one made us get out of our seats. It is everything a funky, fresh suit should be, from the button embellishments on the puff sleeves to the print bandeau, the neckline and the proportions of the jacket and skirt, this is a combination and a look we haven't quite seen before.

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The embellished cuff of this billowy jumpsuit and the embellished necklace are gorgeous.

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It's the buttons again - but not just the buttons. Look at those pants!! Here's a look we'd snatch right off the runway and wear as is - no ifs, no buts, no maybes.

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The strings of Ankara that adorn this raw silk skirt and the trench and jacket below make these pieces what they are. Easily one of the most excellent uses of ankara and somewhat reminiscent of Ituen Basi's work. [P.S. We think the trench could've done without the additional print lining and buttons and the cropped pants could've done without the buttons as well.]


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There's nothing like a chic black dress and with a necklace like that, there's nothing more comforting than solid black with tasteful pops of color.

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Puff sleeves show up often in this collection and we love their re-appearance here. The print on the dress is a beautiful contrast.

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Last but not the least, this dress is simple, sophisticated and beautiful in the same breath. Would love to see this in a floor-length version.

See the entire collection here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Bunmi Koko//Nigeria + UK [Day 2, Africa Fashion Week 2010]



Fringed leggings, masked models, pom poms, fur and tie-dye like graphic prints found an outlet in Bunmi Koko's astounding Matriarchy collection - a seamless follow-up to her 6-piece showing at Graduate Fashion Week. The high neck lines and draped bodices of the Victorian era met with the pom poms, masks and staffs of an Efik cult of men-only masquerades. At once ironic and a powerful statement on its own, a matriarchy collection inspired in part by airless costumes worn only by men and transformed into pieces with an air of charm, dignity, sophistication and confidence speaks volumes. Is there any use trying to make such a cult more inclusive when Bunmi Koko has created an endlessly superior dress code?


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Her exquisite craftsmanship shone through in intricately draped sleeves, a ruched tuxedo jacket and the closest attention to detail - it's always blindingly obvious when a designer has loved every inch of her pieces to life. Her ability to be inspired without taking her inspiration too literally or allow it to subsume her creative vision was a particular highlight, making this the stunning showcase of a designer who celebrates the joys and complexities of womanhood while being very much her own woman. A rousing and outstanding success. 


See more photos here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: David Tlale//South Africa [Day 1, Africa Fashion Week 2010]


David Tlale's choice of a midnight showing for his "Emperor Butterfly" collection had already created quite the flutter before the first model stepped foot on the ramp. A well-known master of flamboyance with a soft spot for the sensational, his collection was filled with pomp and froth grounded in reality and wearability. Print, soft pinks, oranges and the classic black and white were infused with feathers, fringe, lace and sequin finishings, while netting and layering gave pieces the utmost volume and movement. We find Tlale's work over the years a little schizophrenic in that we never quite know what to expect, but put on a well-executed show and perspective he did, showing a broad range of options for the social butterfly with leanings towards the dramatic. 


See the entire collection here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Sakina Msa//Comoro Islands + Paris [Day 1, Africa Fashion Week 2010]




Color-block metallic dresses, high necklines, belted waists, little black minis and undertones of white and silver dominated Sakina Msa's collection. Vertical panels redefined his color-block pieces, a stunning white see-through blouse caught our eyes, while leather pants were offset by delicate pairings.



See the entire collection here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Soucha//Tunisia + Egypt [Day 1, Africa Fashion Week 2010]


Day 1 wouldn't have been complete with a bit of drama and Soucha was there to serve it up with a nearly all-black collection filled with theatrical embellishments fit for a gothic bride. Veils tussled for the spotlight with rosette appliques, lace, sheer panels and a definite emerging trend at Africa Fashion Week - sequins in all the right places. One or two pieces were pure theater with no clear-cut way to translate them into the "real world" but that didn't make Soucha's rendering of the dark side any less fascinating.




See the entire collection here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Ituen Basi//Nigeria [DAY 1, Africa Fashion Week 2010]


The Ituen Basi brand usually invokes certain very specific images - African Print/Ankara deconstructed and reconstructed, shredded, transformed, beaded - making it the go-to brand for a certain timeless, classic look. Her latest collection, bright, beautiful, and bold as it is, is a fascinating study in Ankara's unprecedented ubiquity. If Ituen Basi pushes the boundaries of Ankara , it is in transforming it from the commonplace, the everyday and the trendy into something of a permanent lifestyle fixture. From chic purses, to flats, bangles, and brooches to mono-print dresses and separates, nothing is immune to Ankarization.



Having followed Ituen's work closely, there's a sense of deja vu we get with this collection - we've certainly seen many of the prints and concepts explored before. One particular highlight, however, was her re-interpretation of the iro and buba (traditional top and wrapper) with charming results. That said, Ituen Basi's use of rich prints that often evoke eras gone has become a hallmark of her work in the last few years and we wonder how long the love affair can, will and should last. It'll take fine-tuning the balance between being known for a certain aesthetic and finding ways to creatively and constantly push the boundaries. We're not convinced that was completely accomplished with this collection but being the fiercely talented designer she is, we're sure there's more to come.

See the entire collection here.

XO

STYLE NOTES: Deola Sagoe//Nigeria [DAY 1, Africa Fashion Week, 2010]



There's no way to go about this without being dramatic: Deola Sagoe broke the faucet and rained down glamour. 

It was a staggering and stunning downpour at Deola Sagoe's show earlier today - an avalanche of influences from the swinging 60s, to a dash of victorian glamour and a perhaps subconscious dose of underwater inspiration. From dresses that mimicked the glorious metallic colors of fish and their dazzling scales re-invented as sequins and embellishments, we couldn't shake off the feeling of mermaid/otherworldly glamor. For a collection almost exclusively executed in the distinctly African aso-oke [traditionally woven cloth] as many of her past collections have been, this is an astounding testament to Deola Sagoe's ability to invent, re-invent and transcend. 

The emphasis on movement and shape alongside the most stunning design elements (sharp shoulders, embroidery, sheer panels) tied this collection up in a neat little bow and filed it in the 'extraordinary' compartment of our hearts and minds. A stunning and unbelievable sartorial and visual experience.

Here's a closer look at the most striking design elements:

A touch of the polka:


Magnificent floor-length frocks


Gorgeous multi-tone metallic looks that reminded us very much of colorful fish:


Mini metallica:


Lace and sheer panels:


A dose of black:


Shape and movement:


Victorian glamour, complete with lace and plaid:


Skater waists and sharp sleeves/shoulders:


The designer herself:


AMAZING.

See the entire collection here, courtesy of AFI.

XO

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