Fashion Magazine Models: July 2007

Giorgio Armani, Milan

So this photo has finally run in Wallpaper magazine so I can finally share it with you.

Back in April I was in Milan shooting the Salone for Wallpaper.
It was Saturday, the last day, and the fair was slowing down so I took a lazy walk around the Brera.
I was on Via Borgonuovo when I looked up and saw Armani walking down the street.
Actually, I saw Armani's giant bodyguard first but Armani was about four steps in front of him.
Anyway, I stopped Armani and began to ask him, and quickly began asking the bodyguard (that guy moves quick) if I could take his photo.
He asked for a business card ,which I didn't have on me, so he looked me over and agreed to let me take his picture.

Armani still looked a little hesitant but I have seen him in action enough backstage at his shows that I know he likes to be shot against a dark backdrop to highlight his white hair.

He began to take his one of his trademark poses but I motioned that we should move off the street and in front of a nearby building with a dark background. I motioned to his hair and said something like "bene constrasto" (not to be confused with "bene castrato"). This instantly won a few big points with him and he was very patient while I got a couple of shots.

Funny thing, one of the reasons Armani has built such an incredible empire is he is very careful with every aspect of his image. For example, when you take a photo of Armani he will not look up at the camera until he has set his pose and checked every element of his look. You cannot take a picture of him until he is ready.
As a photographer this is a pain but it is a perfect example of how he continues to worry about every little aspect - I have tremendous respect for that. The guy is in his 70's and is still sweating all the little details.

INTRODUCING - The SartoriaList Women's

I am happy to begin The SartoriaList Women's
Same concept as the Men's SartoriaList plus two additional services.
As with the men's list I will try to get a good mix of ladies from varied income levels.
I am currently efforting responses from women in New York, Milan, Paris, London and Stockholm (Berlin?).
I will be updating the SartoriaList as I receive answers but quite a few will be going up in the next two weeks.

Of course, I had to start with a few of the coolest women I know.

CARINE ROITFELD

Hair salon
Romain Color - 37 rue Rousselet paris 7eme

tailor:
Styl'up - 5 rue pasquier paris 8eme

Dry cleaner:
Delaporte Teinturerie - 62 rue Francois I paris 8eme

Shoe repair
Pulin bottier - 5 rue chauveau Lagarde paris 8eme

Nail Salon
Sothys institut de beaute - 128 rue du faubourg saint honore paris 8eme

Body Treatment
L appartement 217 - 217 rue saint honore paris 1er

EMMANUELLE ALT

Hair Salon:
Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet paris 8eme

tailor:
Styl'up - 5 rue pasquier paris 8eme

Dry cleaner:
Delaporte Teinturerie - 62 rue Francois I paris 8eme

Shoe repair
Cordonnerie Vaneau - 44 rue vaneau paris 7eme

Nail salon and body treatment
Institut Revlon - 19 rue Bassano paris 16eme

TARA HENTHORN

Hair Salon: ALAIN COIFFURE 184 rue de grenelle 7emer
cute little place, where the clientele are like your grandparents, and walking in the door is like stepping back into the 1950's. the ladies have regular appointments to get themselves coiffured and to catch up on the quartier gossip. i go there not really for the haircut (as my hair is never in more need than a trim), but so soak up a little of the old life...

Tailor or Alterations: Being a designer i do it myself.

Dry Cleaner: PRESSING MALAR 27 rue malar 7eme

Shoe Repair: CHAUSSURE ROLAND 12 rue malar 7eme
Gorgeous little old man, owns and runs the place all by himself, and every morning i pass him on the street on the way back from the boulangerie, smile and say "bonjour".

Nail Salon: NOCIBÉ 96-98 rue st Dominique 7eme
A quiet little old place that also gives the most fantastic relaxing body massgaes.

Body treatment: CORPORO SANO 15 bis rue Amelie 7eme
Great eyelash tints.

Lino in GQ plus Out-Take

This is one of my all-time favorite shots of Lino.
It appeared in July GQ but I wanted to make sure it had a home here also.
To me it is the very essence of Milanese style.

I loved this shot but I guess the page just isn't big enough for two Lini (the plural of Lino)

On the Street......Soho, New York

New on The SartoriaList! Reza Raein

As I promised recently, I will be making new additions to The SartoriaList over the next few weeks
Our good friend Reza has sent over his list of resources not only for New York but also Naples!
Reza has also informed me that he has lost 15 pounds and we may soon need to change his moniker to TBM!!

Thanks Reza and the first one to Naples wins!!

from Reza email:
BARBER New York: Peter at Delta Hairstylists
BARBER Naples, Italy: Gianni at Barbieria, via Crispi 13-15
(In my case, given the little hair I have, the barber is really more of a surgeon)

TAILOR/ALTERATIONS suits, Naples, Italy: Mr. Pasquale Sabino at PrimoPiano Italia, Piazza dei Martiri, Naples
TAILOR/ALTERATIONS shirts, Naples, Italy: Mr. Salvatore Piccolo, via Strettola S. Anna alle Paudi 54, Naples

DRYCLEANER: Sophia Careplus 150 E 79th St NYC ( hand pressing of shirts + general dry cleaning)
DRYCLEANER: Perry Process 427 E 74th NYC (suits)

SHOE REPAIR Naples, Italy: Paolo Scafora Custom Shoemaker TEL +39-333-239-6239
SHOE REPAIR NYC: The Empire, 991 Lexington Avenue, NYC (ask for Roman)

This information should be permanently updated on The SartoriaList by the end of this week.

Ladies don't despair the women's SartoriaList in full process. Just wait till you see who I post tomorrow!

On the Street.......Summer Cardigan, Soho

No matter how hot it is outside, it is always colder in your office.

On the Street.......Chopped Leather Pants, Paris

6 Common Tips for Male Accessories

As a business or working class associates, you would want to make sure that every aspect of your look is carefully put together. Therefore, this quick primer on what your accessories should be to ensure you look totally coordinated when you present yourself in important office meeting, special client meeting, ballroom function, seminars and so on.

Make sure you keep everything in complementary colours. Therefore, if your suit is brown, donot wear a tie that clashes. Keeping shoes, ties and cravats in coordinated shades makes you look immediately put together with a great deal of thought.

You can always add a dash of colour with your tie or a shawl (if you're wearing ethnic). Make sure these don't contrast too loudly with.

Do invest few good pair of cufflinks.

Your handkerchiefs should be monogrammed with your initials, it always adds a touch of class.

Your belt should be a pure leather belt, and avoid the flashy buckle. Save it for your casual outing and hang around. you need to look suave and polished in these environment.

Do get a dress watch. This may not be gold or diamond number, but a dress watch will automatically upgrade your look.

Mr. Stefano Tonchi at YSL

Haidee Findlay-Levin, Stylist, Manhattan

Sartorialist Lesson #1A- Wear Your Pants On Your Waist NOT Your Hips

The late Mr. Ferre shows how a larger man can wear his pants at his waist WITH a vest and create a very slimming effect.

Again, the "rules" don't work for everyone but they can usually be slightly tweaked and work more often than not.

If you are taller, check out old photos of Gary Cooper, Jimmy Stewart or Gregory Peck - all tall and still wearing their pants at their waist (with very successful results)

Sartorialist Lesson #1 - Wear Your Pants On Your Waist NOT Your Hips

The easiest and least expensive way for ANY gentleman to look much better in his clothes is to pull those pants up.

Both of these gentleman look more refined ,even while dressed in just shirt sleeves, because they are wearing their pants at their waist and not at their hips.

I think it also visually drops about ten pounds on a guy because your shirt doesn't blouse-out and hang over your belt as badly.

On the Street.......Yohji Femme, Soho

At Valentino....Leopard Tie, Milan

On the Street.......Bold is Beautiful, Harlem

On the Street.......Sunday's Best 3, Harlem

On the Street.......Go-To Summer Dress, Milan

On the Street.......Spring Street, Soho

On the Street.......Sunday's Best 2, Harlem

UPDATE Congrats to Michael Bastian -New Designer for Bill Blass

For my August GQ page I talk about the particular to Manhattan look of guys running out of the office on "early Friday's" in rigs that are somewhere between Manhattan and the Hamptons a.k.a Manhattan Beach.

Live and Let Loose p2

I know I'm fickle but all it takes is seeing a guy like this (looking really cool in in a loose silhouette) to reconsider my my love of the slim Italian classics.
You have to admit that this guy looks pretty cool and comfortable.